The Transfagarasan.
We had been waiting for this road. 151 kilometers of endless twists, high mountain passes, endless waterfalls, dense forests We are driving, and with every kilometer the snowstorm grows stronger, and visibility becomes more and more difficult.
When we reach the summit, we see nothing everything is white around us, we are inside a cloud.
We think of the monk we met a few hours ago in a small roadside church who told us the storm would intensify toward the evening and the road might be closed.
In a moment’s decision, we move forward, even skipping a stop at Lake Balea, considered one of the most beautiful points on the route.
We drive carefully through sharp curves until we leave the road discovering it does indeed close shortly after we pass, for at least a few days, possibly for the whole winter season.
Three photographers in the car, a detailed itinerary with waypoints on Google Maps but someone else dictates where we go and what we do each day the weather.
In the Carpathians in October, the weather dictates everything.
Rain, snow, fog each leads to different directions, and we go with the flow. In retrospect, the changes to the route, the things we skipped, and those added by chance these were what made this trip so successful for each of us.
Three days before departure, the universe sends a strong message.
The first snowstorm covers the peaks and roads we planned to travel with a thick layer of snow, earlier than usual for the season.
Meanwhile, historical-level rains flood the streets of the capital and the internet with images.
We are not scared having winter experience in northern countries, the cold does not frighten us, and we have all the necessary equipment.
Rain and fog affecting visibility on winding mountain roads, and especially the heavy worry that roads will close for the season, concern us much more.
Reports from travelers in the area say that bears stopped approaching roads as they usually do in summer, and there is concern they are starting their winter hibernation early.
The early cold also affects the autumn colors, which have not yet reached the deep reds we love to photograph.
What do we do? We drive and discover.
Our trip begins with landing in the capital city and immediate departure toward the Carpathians.
After two hours of easy driving, we reach our first night’s accommodation in the town of Curtea de Arges.
Like every place we will visit over the next ten days, there are beautiful churches and a flowing river but we cannot wait to hit the road.
And this is no ordinary road this is the Transfagarasan, one of the most beautiful roads in the world, reaching up to 2,042 meters.
The road crosses the Carpathians, the second largest mountain range in Europe, covering a large area in central Romania.
It was built in the early 1970s to allow military passage through the mountains.
The work, in such difficult terrain and extreme climate conditions, reportedly caused the deaths of hundreds of workers.
Today, Romania has faster and wider highways crossing the mountains, and the Transfagarasan remains mainly a nature attraction and a challenge for driving enthusiasts.
The road begins climbing into the mountains.
The views are amazing, and every slight deviation opens a breathtaking window to nature.
Half an hour into the drive, we descend into a small village by the road and park near a charming little church.
From the church comes a local gardener we tell him we are from abroad, and he insists on opening the building adorned with magnificent wall paintings and giving us a short tour.
He will be the first of many local Romanians we will meet, all happy to meet tourists, many Christians dreaming of visiting holy places.
We say goodbye, taking with us homemade liqueurs and jam prepared by the monks.
A further detour from the road leads us to a spectacular church in the middle of the forest.
On both sides, endless waterfalls and streams flow in every direction.
A small cabin with a red roof and smoke rising from the chimney completes the scene.
At this stage, it is still unclear whether the bears have indeed started their winter sleep early, or if they are just waiting for the right guests
We move cautiously among the trees, passing signs warning about bears.
A few clicks later, we continue climbing.
Approaching the summit, everything is covered in white.
Snow and waterfalls a combination irresistible to a photographer.
We stop in the middle of nowhere, breathing deeply, taking pictures. Minutes pass, and the snow intensifies.
We are inside a cloud, and visibility becomes increasingly limited.
Now we are close to the summit and Lake Balea nearby.
The worry that the road will close and we would have to retrace our path leads us to decide to skip the lake and continue driving. In retrospect, one of the best decisions We finish this drive in darkness in the city of Sibiu, checking forums for travelers and discovering the road did indeed close shortly after we passed photographers call it “fox luck.”
The next day, we drive from Sibiu north. First stop is Biertan, a Saxon village with an impressive church with red roofs and pointed towers.
This fortified church was built by the Saxons for protection and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We continue to Medias, a town with one of the best-preserved historic centers in Romania and another remarkable fortified church.
The churches and fortresses are rich in folklore, often linked to the fictional character Dracula, based on the real story of Vlad the Impaler, born in 1431 and known for his cruelty.
Some fortresses have legends of imprisonment, others have souvenir stalls with Dracula-themed items.
Romania is ten times larger than Israel and has twice the population.
We drive and drive, surrounded by nature and vast agricultural fields with farmers plowing, sowing, and harvesting.
We meet two different Romanians one living in cities and highways, similar to other developed countries, and the other along side roads, capturing our attention at every kilometer.
We pass small villages with beautiful churches and tiny shops serving coffee at low prices.
Occasionally, a horse-drawn cart appears. For a true experience, avoid highways.
In Targu Mures, we meet a photographer documenting Gypsy communities for over thirty years.
With him, doors open to families inviting us into modest but colorful homes.
Children accompany us from door to door, receiving candies.
Gypsy communities are undergoing major changes.
Men travel to Italy and Germany for work, improving housing with their earnings.
Villages are still poor, most homes lack water and electricity infrastructure. Only one in five children attends school, and health services are limited. In some homes, life has barely changed in a century.
An hour from Targu Mures, in Sovata, a tourist steam train takes travelers, mostly families, to autumn landscapes and rivers.
Nearby, a complex of clear lakes with endless walking paths offers a perfect spot for a coffee and pumpkin pie while enjoying the view.
The next night is spent in Sighisoara, a small town on a river with a fully preserved historic center, recognized by UNESCO.
Our hotel is right at the edge of the old town.
We climb a hill for sunset views of the town, with lights illuminating alleys, churches, and fortresses.
The journey continues with scenic stops at Rupea, a 14th-century Saxon fortress on a basalt cliff, and Brasov, an ancient city with a rich historic center.
We explore nearby Poiana Brasov, a small town and ski resort, and Zarnesti, enjoying Piatra Craiului National Park and autumn colors.
The highlight of this part of the trip is observing Romania’s famous brown bears.
We meet an experienced guide who leads us to a small hide in the forest. Rangers place food to attract bears, keeping them away from villages.
Over an hour, we see six bears, including a pregnant female, eating and leaving space for the next.
We also visit the Libearty Bear Sanctuary near Zarnesti, home to rescued bears from circuses across Eastern Europe.
The sanctuary provides food, veterinary care, and a natural environment. Visitors can safely observe bears and wolves recovering from abuse.
The drive passes through tourist towns like Sinaia and Bran.
Both feature impressive palaces Bran Castle, famously associated with Dracula, and Peles Palace in Sinaia.
We enjoy good coffee and continue to the capital city for the return flight. Twelve days, 2,000 kilometers, countless meals, and memory cards full of photos.
Romania offered us one of the richest and most diverse experiences fascinating people, wild nature, remarkable architecture, delicious food something to return for and discover even more.
